I know some travelers get really excited about “Changing of the Guard” ceremonies, but I never thought I’d be one of them.
When we were in London we studiously avoided the famous guard change at Buckingham Palace (given the stories I’d heard, I was afraid I might punch someone in that ridiculously aggressive crowd), and yesterday we happened upon one in Budapest that was remarkably underwhelming.
The whole “pomp and circumstance” thing flies way over my head, and in general I find the high-stepping and sword-waving choreography sort of silly.
But Prague’s Changing of the Guard? Totally changed my mind.
There’s a short Changing of the Guard at the front gates of Prague Castle every hour, but the ceremony’s a little more engaging at noon.
Guards pour out of the palace doors and line up, then others march in through the front gates and face the soldiers going off duty.
The rather intense bloke in charge (you can tell he’s in charge because he’s waving a sword around) admonishes everyone to stand up straight and test their muskets and parade about fancifully… or at least that’s what I assume was said, since I don’t speak Czech.
But the best part? This was all done to the accompaniment of a brass orchestra.
Seriously, there were trumpets! And drums! Playing from the second-floor windows! It was all wonderfully festive.
While these men obviously take their job very seriously, they’re not nearly as stoic as the British guards. They shift a little, their eyes wander, and I even saw one scratching his nose.
I known — Scratching. His. Nose. The horror of it!
The normal guards stationed on duty around Prague Castle were similarly relaxed; while they didn’t leave their spots, they wouldn’t be nearly as much fun to taunt as their British brethren because they aren’t completely immobile.
In fact, their eyes were wandering all over the place, presumably entertaining themselves by watching the tourists wandering by.
Or perhaps, y’know, actually guarding.
Not to hate on British soldiers or anything, but how is “keeping your eyes forward at all times” an effective guard technique?
Most of the danger I know isn’t going to announce itself by helpfully entering your line of sight first, so perhaps a little more engagement with the surroundings might do a better job of protecting the queen?
Just sayin’. If anyone has an in with the British military, pass along my number – I’d be happy to freelance as a security consultant.
ANYHOW. Back to the Prague soldiers.
After traipsing about the courtyard in various formations and fiercely brandishing their guns, the exchange was completed.
The guards being relieved marched out the iron gates and away down the cobblestone streets, while those newly arrived on duty high-stepped their way through the palace doors.
We’d only been told about the event a few minutes before, so perhaps its impromptu (to us) nature and our lack of expectations played a part in this, but I found the ceremony unexpectedly wonderful. The crowds were thin, the brass orchestra set a cheerful tone, and the whole maze of steps about the courtyard was fascinating.
Those snazzy uniforms didn’t hurt, either.
I’m now a convert, and if you’re in Prague I’d highly recommend taking the time to see this.
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First off, that is really cool – we tried to watch it but every time we went, it was raining so they cancelled it [rain haters].
Secondly, you should know that a lady never throws a punch. A lady needs to know how to throw a good elbow all the way [follow through is very key here]. You may break a nail trying to punch someone.
jenjenk recently posted: Istanbul, Turkey: Istanbul Eats Old City Food Tour
I can get behind throwing elbows, for sure… especially since I’m 4’10″, so my aim can be a bit more, shall we say, pointed.
My specialty is snarling, though, which is usually effective enough to prevent any further engagement.
I’ve been trying to teach my wife how to punch correctly now for several years — yep, I know that could turn out bad for me, but seriously, basic travel skill. Follow through is key. Prague looks like fun!
Ha, thanks for the tip! Through the rest of our travels I’ll be muttering to myself “it’s all in the follow through… it’s all in the follow through….”
I saw the changing of the guard at the Presidential Palace in Lima–the guards had machine guns, but the policewoman directing traffic was texting the whole time!
50+ and on the Run recently posted: Multiple Choice
Machine guns would freak me out! Those seem less for ceremonial purposes, if I’m not mistaken…
This gave me a few good chuckles. I do believe you could go into security consulting. Your ability to clearly outline complicated security strategies like “look around” make you a shoo-in.
BTW, I have been meaning to tell you that I love the way your pictures fade in as you scroll down the page. A little detail that makes the experience of reading your blog a little more delightful.
Enjoy Prague!
Caanan @ No Vacation Required recently posted: What Will You Do for $20
Thank you! Clearly I have a lot of high-quality security ideas to offer, so I’m not really sure why I haven’t gotten an offers yet. People, hit me up! I could be working for YOU!
Kali is going to love your comment about the pictures fading — he was so ridiculously pleased when he implemented that feature, so I’m sure he’ll be tickled that you enjoy it.
What no Journey? No theme from Star Wars? What’s wrong with these people?
I do like how the brass band appears in the windows. Do the windows go up when it’s showtime like a peep show? (Ummm…not that I would know what that looks like…)
Steve recently posted: J. Paul Getty Museum – Angry Birds Vs. Culture
They had someone in a fancy uniform come and open all the windows ahead of time, then when the ceremony began the orchestra marched up and played. Probably a lot more refined than if they had to open the windows themselves.
Haha entertaining post!! I have only ever seen the changing of the guard at London and like you say you definitely have to stand your ground! Get to the fence then hold on for dear life!
Jozef @ Where Now? recently posted: Cochabamba – South America’s Biggest Market
Jozef – would you say it’s worth it, though? Now that I’ve enjoyed Prague’s so much I’m wondering if I should give London’s a chance…
Great photos! This sounds way better than the one in London…we didn’t go but I was reading a post about it the other day and it sounded just too much. Hopefully we’ll catch this in Prague next week.
Andrea recently posted: Atrocities of the Berlin Wall
I would definitely recommend it, Andrea – it’s not that stressful at all, especially if you get there 15 minutes early or so and get a spot in the front, by the ropes. It gets crowded enough that if you’re further back you can’t really take decent photos (or, in my case, see over other people), but it’s easy to find your way to a good spot.
I’m sad I missed this when I visited the castle last year, but I hope to see it next year when I go back! Great pictures guys!
Norbert recently posted: Making Chocolate Like The Mayas Used To
Thanks, Norbert! It was quite cool, so I’d definitely recommend it on your return trip to Prague.
Who knew the changing of the guard could have so much colour and all the “pomp and circumstance”? No more stoic and staid looks, as a scratch of the nose puts a scratch on all that “respectability”! I’ve visited Prague many times, but I’ve only managed to catch a part of the guard change. Your post and photos capture very well the grand nature of the ceremony.
fotoeins | Henry recently posted: In the field of stelae – Berlin
Not only were they not stoic, but some of them really seemed to enjoy hamming it up for the cameras! I was in the front leaning out with my camera, and some would catch my eye and wait for me to take a picture before looking away. I was very appreciative, but it was unexpected!
Lovely post and wonderful photos. I saw this last year too! Thanks for bringing back some good memories.
Cheryl recently posted: McDonalds Around The World: Budapest, Hungary.
Glad to hear you liked it as well, Cheryl!
Cool photos! I’ve never even thought to watch one of these ceremonies before, but I’ve read about it on a few blogs and may have to catch one next time we are in Europe. I agree about the whole looking forward thing. It doesn’t really make sense to me either.
Christy @ Ordinary Traveler recently posted: Travel Shot: 3:10 to Yuma
Another Christy after my own heart.
You got some really great shots. I watched it in London, and it was drizzly and there were hordes of people blocking my photos… the nerve!
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted: Foto of the Week from …. Buenos Aires
How dare they! Actually, I jest…. but that annoys the heck out of me, lol.
That’s awesome! Yes, I feel like every time I read about another person being disappointed in Buckingham Palace’s, I read a blog post on a random country’s changing of the guard that is randomly awesome. So cool!
Abby recently posted: Travel vs vacation
I guess it helps balance them out; at least we know not all Changing of the Guard ceremonies are a bust.
I’m a sucker for uniforms, bands and all the pomp and circumstance. I’ve never been to this changing of the guard but when I make it to Prague I will not miss it. I actually really enjoy the changing of the guard in London. I’ve experienced a couple times but my favorite was early April. I could actually see the entire thing without a million heads in the way! It was a very special time and I recommend it
Debbie Beardsley @ European Travelista recently posted: The Bizarre World of Swarovski
Good to know, Debbie! Timing can be everything for these types of things.
Interesting points of view! If a man scratches his nose while looking at a woman he is interested in her.
So that’s why everyone scratches their nose when they’re around me!
I think these sorts of changing of the guard ceremonies are pretty ridiculous and outdated… but it sounds like you might have found the one worth seeing
Scott – Quirky Travel Guy recently posted: Photo Teaser #18: Name that city
I’ve always thought they were really outdated as well, but this ceremony in Prague has a fascinating history due to wars and occupation and all that (awful) jazz. According to the internetz this ceremony (and the brass orchestra in particular) has only been around since 1990! Go figure.
They even have a brass orchestra?? I like it. Good point about the guards and the eyes — never thought of that. But I must say that I have seen the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace and enjoyed it very much . But maybe that’s because we were right up front in the crowd which was very cool.
I think I’m going to have to check that one out now. I’ll just make sure to arrive early and stake out a place in the front… and maybe bring a huge box to stand on.
I think what puts this one over the top are the musicians on the second floor of the building. Their vantage point allows their sounds to carry further. And I really like that window photo of tuba and trumpet players. But its so sad to learn that the guard changing event at Buckingham Palace is a disappointing one. I always wanted to go, but more and more I’m hearing its not worth it. Such a pity.
Sherry recently posted: “Crocodile Hunting in Mexico”
I hadn’t really thought about that, Sherry – and I’m sure the layout of the courtyard helped carry the sound as well. It was certainly an impressive vantage point!
So Unique! Great job documenting it.
Erik recently posted: Northern California- Day Eleven
Thanks Erik!
We have seen that ceremony in Athens. It was like an idiot’s circle. We was laughing all day after.
Victor recently posted: Dancing with Manta Rays
Really? Now I’m intrigued….
Haha I love the horn players in the windows!
TheWorldOrBust recently posted: Sofia, Bulgaria – The Paris of the Balkans…Not!
My fav part as well, for sure.
So true about the British guards. The same bad logic led them to wear their blazing red uniforms when they tried to fight us Yanks in the Revolutionary War. We could see them coming from miles away. My English husband LOVES to be reminded of that, too.
Melissa recently posted: A relationship movie so good it hurts Like Crazy to watch
That’s awesome. If I had an English husband I’d probably make fun of him for the same thing… plus a few others.
Great post! I studied in Prague and always loved walking by the castle during the changing of the guard ceremony.
A Lady in London recently posted: Lady and the World Travel Market
Was your university near the castle? That would be a cool place to go to school. Distracting, but cool.
Unfortunately my university wasn’t near the castle. There was a tram near where we lived that went directly, there, though!
I never saw this – I think they look like little toy soldiers!
robin recently posted: Return of K
Looks way better than the London one that the Hecks saw…
Raymond @ Man On The Lam recently posted: Classic TV Combats Airport Ennui
That’s what I thought! We posted this right after I read their write-up, which just reaffirmed my opinion that Prague’s ceremony is top notch.
Wow, I wish that we got around to seeing it while in Prague. We watched the changing of the Guard in London a few weeks before going to Prague and agree, it was terrible. The best one we saw was in Volgograd Russia. It was filled with grandeur and ceremony but there were very few people watching. It was at the war memorial of Stalingrad where a Mother Russia stands proud over head. It was amazing.
The ceremony in Volgograd sounds awesome, Deb. I don’t know why, but when I was thinking about Changing of the Guards in other countries Russia immediately came to mind. Not sure if I had previously heard something of the ceremonies there or I just assumed Russia would pull out the stops!
Like you, I avoided the changing in London but I did see one in Ottawa many, many years ago. I’m sure it’s still fun to watch.
InsideJourneys recently posted: Soulful Sundays: The Folkes Brothers
Ottawa is one I’ve never heard of before (the Changing of the Guard there, not the city).
I’ll definitely remember to check it out if/when we visit. Thanks!
Thanks for the interesting post. Playing music from the windows reminds me of a Christmas tradition when trumpets are played from windows in church steeples or watch towers.
I had never heard of that tradition before, Andreas, but it sounds lovely! The music coming from the windows at the ceremony was my favorite part, so I imagine I’d really appreciate a Christmas tradition that was similar.
I am totally in agreement – most changing of the guard ceremonies make me shrug my shoulders and say ‘meh.’ This one looks great though! Anything with a brass band and snazzy uniforms makes me happy, I’ll have to check this out when we get there!
Dayna recently posted: Books of a Nation: Chester Beatty Library
Thanks for the comment, Dayna. If you want snazzy uniforms this is totally the place to go.
I saw the changing of the guard at Prague Castle too. I even got a video of them changing the guards at the front gate. It was really quite exciting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4E1fPGrG9U
That’s cool! We were way inside the gate, which means we had a great view of part of the ceremony but didn’t get a chance to see them leaving the front gate. Great video!